While the temple town of Nathdwara sees millions of pilgrims and tourists each month, there is a little-known secret about the place that delights those who walk the narrow lanes: great food. Vishal Sampat takes us down gastro-lane (only after darshanofcourse).

Nathdwara, or Shrinathji, is a popular temple town near Udaipur in Rajasthan. Frequented by Vaishnavs (Vishnu followers), it is home to one the world’s most visited Krishna temples.

It is said, there cannot be bhajan (worship) without bhojan (meal). It was probably said here – in this quaint town of 40,000 people that sees thousands of visitors every day. Here’s a quick reckoner of must-try food-spots:

Kullad-Chai

As you return from darshan, and walk out of the main gate, take a left and go straight to the end of the lane, opposite the ‘Tortoise Temple’. The shop here opens just when dashalus(those doing darshan) are heading back to their rooms – and don’t mind a tea to keep them awake.  It serves tea in earthern cups – but whatever the cup be – the tea is great! Especially if you’re having it at 5 am, right after Mangla-darshan.

You could, well, have the poha along with it too, for an excellent start to the day!

‘Chowpatty’

Yes, there is a ‘Chowpatty’ in Nathdwara too!It doesn’t have a beach, but i suspect it is called so after the stalls of junk-food (like GirgaonChowpatty in Mumbai) occupying a ‘chowk’ in the middle of the main road to the Temple – where four roads meet (chow-patty).

We don’t really venture into the lanes of shops that serve pav-bhaji, pizzas and other ‘Bombay-style’ food. Recommended to stick to the stalls facing the street and gorge on the ‘Shakarkand-batata’ and ‘thandai’ that will catch your attention. It’s a feast for those fasting, as according to the flexible fasts Vaishnavs have, we can eat a few selected variety of foods that is prepared very well here.

Thandai

There are also a handful of ‘thandai’-walas who make some awesome milk with dry-fruits and will include a dose ofbhaang (domestic herbal intoxicant) on request. Grinders made of stone being used to crush masala and make a paste that makes the thandai the way it is.

Shikanji

Then there is Shankar, popularly known as Shankar Shikanji-wala. He makes Shikanji– a soda-based lemon drink, to which Shankar adds a masala made from his own recipe. He says that it can cure all kinds of acidity and digestion-related problems, apart from tasting really great! And indeed, you can buy some masalaand use in different preparations – sandwiches, salads, etc and it adds a tasty zing to the food it touches.

But that is not the only reason why people visit his cart opposite Moti Mahal late evening, for a post-dinner, digestive shikanji.

Shankar, is a crowd-puller of sorts. He does this act of a lost-love about his girl called ‘Dolly’.He is still hopeful that she will say yes to marriage. And occasionally cries out”Dolllyyyy…” in despair. Much to the amusement of his customers.

He also has this habit of embarrassing people. If you turn up with someone, he might try and embarrass you by asking, “Tumharisaathe Shilpa-ben hataeekyangya?” (Where is the lady called Shilpa who was with you earlier?) In all probability, you get taken aback and while you try to explain to people with you that you had not been here before, especially not with a Shilpa, he’ll prepare the Shikanji and hand it to you with a mischievous smile and say, “Vandhonahi!” (No problem!)

Jokes apart, for some great Shikanji and masala to bring back – head to this guy!

Prasad

The temple board also offers prasad, through official channels in exchange for a donation. So yes, it ‘sells’ prasad, money from which doubles as salary for those running the temple.

Get ready to be spoilt over boondi ka laddoo, mohanthaland chakkaare sure to take you closer to God – either through self-control or through a sugar overdose. However, get ready for a divine experience.

KesarDoodha and Jalebi

If all the running around from one jhanki to another has tired you, the best way to get back the energy is with kesardoodh and jalebi. The jalebis are warm, fresh and melt away instantly leaving a sugary after-taste that will be tough to forget. Unless, you choose to wash it down using warm milk which has generous doses of kesar (saffron).

Across Rajasthan, it is customary to have a high-calorie breakfast. So there’s a valid reason to queue up in the morning too.

Nathdwara literally means ‘Gateway to God’. Whether you will find God or not, is up to your pursuit and belief. What you can find though, is divine gastronomy. A range of interesting food and beverages that will make you want to walk through the gateway, time and again. After all, there cannot be bhajan without bhojan.

Do share your experiences and recommendations on theglobalbhatia@gmail.com and on our FB page: www.facebook.com/theglobalbhatia

Pics:

http://ifsandbutts.blogspot.in/2009/10/nathdwara-chowpatty-yes-there-is.html